Krems an der Donau surprises with contrasts that come together to form a harmonious whole: Cobblestones meet contemporary art, baroque churches meet minimalist architecture. Just 70 kilometres west of Vienna, at the transition from the Krems Valley ("Kremstal" in German) to the Wachau, lies one of Austria's oldest cities - with a UNESCO World Heritage Site on its doorstep and a penchant for cultural independence.
The historic old town centre around the Steiner Tor gate, the Gozzoburg castle and the Körnermarkt market tell of merchants and pilgrims, of power and change. At the same time, Kunstmeile Krems with its exhibition centres characterises the modern image of the city. If you widen your gaze, you can see the mighty Göttweig Abbey enthroned on the other side of the Danube - a baroque centre of power with a wide horizon.
As the oldest town in Lower Austria and neighbour of the Roman town of Mautern, Krems not only inspires with history, but also with nature - for example on the circular hiking trail over the Pfaffenberg with a magnificent view of the valley.
Behind the Steiner Tor, the only surviving town gate from the late Middle Ages, begins a tour through the oldest part of Krems. Cobblestones, narrow alleyways, baroque town houses and hidden courtyards tell of a long trading history.
The route leads past the Körnermarkt, the parish church of St. Veit with its striking tower façade and via the Piaristenstiege to the church of the same name with a panoramic view over the old town. A special destination is the Gozzoburg - a Gothic town castle with richly painted interiors, which is accessible on guided tours.
If you want to find out more, join a guided tour of the old town or an evening night watchman tour. Christine Emberger, for example, uses her in-depth knowledge and fascinating anecdotes to bring history to life on her themed tours - precisely, personally and with a flair for special details.
Just a few steps away from the old town centre, Kunstmeile Krems offers a contemporary counterpoint to the historic city.
The Landesgalerie Niederösterreich impresses with its sculptural architecture and light-flooded rooms for Austrian art. Right next door, the Kunsthalle Krems presents bold contemporary exhibitions, while the Caricature Museum inspires reflection with subtle mockery and depth. The ensemble is complemented by the Forum Frohner and the Artothek Niederösterreich, where art can also be borrowed. For an enjoyable break: the stylish Café Poldi Fitzka on the ground floor of the Landesgalerie.
In Krems, art is not just an object, but a dialogue partner. The words "When I say art, I mean the whole thing " are emblazoned right next to the Landesgalerie Niederösterreich - a clear statement: art is attitude, not decoration.
On the Krems campus, the sculpture "Loop" circles between science and creativity. The memorial "6.4.1945" is a powerful reminder of a dark chapter in the city's history.
A fascinating example of art in everyday urban life is Daniel Domaika 's studio on Minoritenplatz in Stein. The Spanish-born painter, sculptor and performance artist has transformed a former cellar into his studio - a lively cultural centre.
Göttweig Benedictine Abbey sits enthroned at 422 metres above sea level on the eastern edge of the Wachau - visible from afar and often referred to as the "Austrian Montecassino". The active monastery has been a UNESCO World Hertige site in the Wachau since 2000. Around 30 monks live here according to the rule of St Benedict and welcome visitors from all over the world.
A beautiful hiking trail to Göttweig Abbey leads from Furth mainly along a forest path up to the abbey. Once at the top, guests can expect impressive insights: the largest baroque staircase in Austria, a museum with exhibitions on art and the history of the monastery and a breathtaking panoramic view over the Danube valley.
Guided tours provide an insight into monastic life. A visit to the monastery restaurant with terrace, the monastery shop and cultural events such as concerts make Göttweig a place that combines vision, history and spirituality.
If you want to see Krems from above, you will find one of the most beautiful viewpoints in the region on the Wachtberg. A narrow path leads up from the old town centre - past churches, old stone walls and vineyards. The view widens with every step: of the rooftops of Krems and Stein, the Danube and the hills of the Wachau.
But the Wachtberg is more than just a panorama. Archaeological finds prove that people lived here around 30,000 years ago. The famous "Wachtberg twins", two burial figures from the Palaeolithic period, were discovered here. Information boards along the trail tell the story - and build a bridge between the past and present.
The hike can be continued as a circular route via the Kreuzberg back to the town.
My favourite place is the Ferdinand-Warte high above the Danube valley - the view from there is simply incredible!
